Fashion Editorial Week

New York Fashion Week may be under way but the most newsworthy events in the industry didn't occur on the catwalk but inside the glossy pages. The close-knitted relationship between retailers and publishers has been gaining momentum for a while, reaching its pinnacle with the publication of the highly anticipated and somewhat controversial Porter magazine.

Lucy Yeomans, editor-in-chief of Porter magazine and Natalie Massenet, Net-a-Porter's Executive Chairwoman 

From Vogue's Fashion Night Out to online shopping inside magazine websites, this is a win-win situation as they feed off one another. Retailers such as Top Shop and My Wardrobe have also hired women who were previously working in the publishing industry. But this is the first time in history that a global luxury retailer - Net-a-Porter.com - publishes a glossy magazine.

The sky is the limit for Massenet who is certainly one of the most powerful voices in the fashion industry at the moment. The new magazine is not overtly focused on shopping (although its iPad version will be) and features are toward the front for a change. 

We can also expect the most talented individuals in the field such as Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, who photographed the cover. But, apart from being global, without the restrictions of being confined to a particular country, what does it offer in terms of content? 

Aimed at "stylish intelligent women", there is not much indication about thought provoking features. Nowadays, magazines are incredibly superficial without much to read at all. It would definitely be worth producing a truly global magazine in terms of content too, featuring different cultures, lifestyles and other creative areas by qualified and conscientious journalists.

Kate Moss magazine covers

But these are not the only news in publishing; Kate Moss, the woman the world loves to watch, decided to venture behind the camera as fashion editor for British Vogue, editing a fabulous shoot photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. "Perhaps not every editor takes her model out partying on the first night of the shoot" writes Alexandra Shulman on her editor's letter.

Daria Werbowy on Vogue UK March 2014 styled by Kate Moss

Kate Moss is known for not giving interviews and remains a mysterious figure despite being one of the most photographed women in the world. After turning 40 this year, her career shows no signs of slowing down and she continues to inspire others such as Dominique Miceli, director of Looking for Kate, an "unauthorised" documentary.

Kate Moss at Bailey's Stardust exhibition

She has also seduced the art world and graced gallery walls; the latest exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery - Bailey's Stardust - features an incredible portrait of her by the renowned photographer David Bailey. If you're in London or planning to visit the city in the near future, don't miss the opportunity to closely observe his amazing work. I leave you with "Kate Moss, Creating a Icon", a film by Nicola Graef.

Bailey's Stardust

6 February - 1 June 2014

National Portrait Gallery

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Top Magazine Covers

It's the million dollar question, what is the secret behind the success of a magazine cover? Some covers become iconic and represent the spirit of a decade or a particular creative mind while others are simply breathtaking. How can a magazine stand out among many others on the newsstand? 

Iconic: British Vogue May 2003, Interview March 1977, Harper's Bazaar September 1992

"The swift and far-reaching changes associated with the rise of the celebrity style-leader, the spectacular new theatricals of the fashion industry and the ever expanding proliferation of luxury consumables would have counted for little without the publicity engendered by the mass-produced images and texts that accompanied and preceded them" writes Christopher Breward on his book Fashion. 

Lascivious: Numéro September 2002, Love September 2010, Pop Spring-Summer 2005

These words are still valid for today's magazine industry so much so that Anna Wintour, the most renowned and influential editor of our time, described Vogue as much more than a magazine, "it is a superbrand" (quote from In Vogue, The Illustrated History of the World's Most Famous Fashion Magazine).  

Surprising: Love Spring/Summer 2013, Vogue May 15 1941, Spanish Harper's Bazaar April 2013

"We should never underestimate the element of surprise, which plays a crucial role in the taking of cover shoots." Tonne Goodman 

It's fascinating to read about the evolution of 'fashion on the page', how much everything has changed and how magazines have managed to adapt, maintaining their authority and even challenging fashion itself as a benchmark of standards of taste and beauty. Diana Vreeland, the legendary style icon, transformed American Vogue in the 60s with bold and spectacular fashion narratives.

Fun: Life February 18 1926, Vogue April 1968, Harper's Bazaar June/July 2013

"A new dress doesn't get you anywhere; it's the life you're living in the dress, and the sort of life you had lived before, and what you do in it later." Diana Vreeland

Her enthusiasm for life and her view of fashion as the ultimate fantasy were reflected on the magazine pages and today these images continue to be a reference and express the unique characteristics of a particular period in time which continues to inspire current style communicators.

Peace & Love: Love Autumn/Winter 2011, Italian Vogue August 2005, French Vogue November 2010 

In a world where style is blurring and redefining itself through a myriad of images taken on the street and on the red carpet and when so many voices dictate what to wear, it can be difficult for magazines to retain their power, particularly when their connection with retail is more and more intertwined. 

Eye contact: Interview April 2012, Vogue May 1975, French Vogue September 2008

But for fashion aficionados nothing beats the glossy pages, from the theatrical viewpoint to the "real woman" approach, today's magazines combine fantasy and reality but this demands a fine balance not easily achieved. When facing a newsstand, many smiling faces look at us but what really catches our attention? 

Headpiece: Interview January 1973, Chinese Numéro December 2011, Vogue December 1968

As in a job interview, a decision is taken within seconds even if we're not aware of it. The titles do obviously matter but often the image of the cover reflects the style of content inside the magazine. We may not be able to "judge a book by its cover" but this doesn't apply to magazines, as it is undoubtedly the first contact point with the 'brand'.

Beauty: Vogue August 1939, Vogue January 1950, Harper's Bazaar June 1940

        

Going through the most memorable magazine covers of all time, some key elements stand out. A captivating image usually reflects the zeitgeist but in particular cases it can be timeless or even iconic. Surprise can also add to the magic, when we're presented with something unexpected as the amazing "Kate cleans up" Love cover.

Fantasy: Vogue November 15 1917, Numéro December 1999_ January 2000, Vogue, April 1918

The fun element is definitely underestimated, this is not about smiling but the expression of a vibrant and joyful energy. Fantasy is also crucial, it's an open space where illustration, technology, extraordinary headpieces and time travel can provoke a strong impression, impossible to define. Eye contact is a common feature on the cover of a magazine, becoming more powerful when expressing a challenging attitude.

Exercise: Vogue June 1940, Pop Autumn/Winter 2002-03, Vogue October 2002 

The body can also take centre stage on lascivious covers exuding sensuality or exercise focused images, featuring it as a blank canvas for fashion. Nonetheless it's difficult to pinpoint what exactly makes a great cover, it's like alchemy, it results from the fusion of many elements and people working together. We simply recognise it at first glance!



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Vogue Festival 2013

This year's festival was almost like an upgrade of its successful first version, set in a premium location with a much larger audience and a wide range of key speakers from the fashion industry. This is a great opportunity to judge for ourselves people whom we can only perceive through the eyes of the media.

Natalie Massenet, Vogue Festival 2013 (photo: vogue.co.uk)

From the impact of street style blogs on the fashion industry to the secrets behind the success of a magazine cover shoot, many aspects were discussed and thought of by those who made it to the top. How to get there continues to be the main question in most people's minds. 

One of the most influential speakers was definitely Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-a-porter.com and chairman of the British Fashion Council. She anticipated the evolution of e-commerce into retail in 1999 and after eleven years sold her business to the luxury-brand Richemont group for £350 million, while remaining its executive chairman. 

Festival Highlights: Day One, British Vogue on YouTube

Her meteoric rise enables her to speak with authority about success but Massenet says there is no fixed recipe apart from being unique and to follow our instincts. In fact, each person has their own path and some manage to get there others don't, but what is the definition of success? 

Let's look at two examples of the British fashion industry, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Both made it to the top, their talent was revered and their bank accounts had robust figures. But can fortune and glory define success? McQueen ended up killing himself and if you watch Galliano speaking after his amazing first show and watch him years later at the end of a catwalk, the difference is obvious.

Festival Highlights: Day Two, British Vogue on YouTube

Without wanting to get into the scandal that propelled his exit from Christian Dior, even though his talent is undeniable in both periods, the joyful young man of the beginning of his career was no longer there. Fortune and glory are not necessarily bad, Massenet looks ravishing and professionally fulfilled, but they are not reliable sources of happiness and do not define success. 

It's important to strive to do what we love but how we affect other people's lives can also be incredibly rewarding. An enthusiastic debate with Vivienne Westwood, Livia Firth, Katharine Hamnett and photographer Tom Craig left no doubts about how fashion can actually change the world. 

photo: vogue.co.uk

This is the way forward, a conscientious approach to both production and consumption. If success continues to be measured in figures, it's impossible to let light into the dark corners of the fashion industry and 'accidents' such as the one in Bangladesh this weekend can become inevitable.  

Vogue's Festival was also brighter with other stars of the fashion industry such as Donatella Versace, Victoria Beckham, Mario Testino and the fabulous Alber Elbaz, Lanvin's creative director. Looking forward to next year's edition!

For more information visit British Vogue.



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Fashion's Night Out

This is such an exciting time! It gives me great pleasure to celebrate the first anniversary of my blog with a video about an amazing evening - Vogue's Fashion Night Out. The streets were alive with a buzzing atmosphere, live music entertainment and fun photo sessions. Enjoy!

I've designed my own dress and can design one exclusively for your tailored to your lifestyle or a particular occasion. For further information just email me (right hand side of this blog). Once again, thank you all for your support. I will work hard to continue deserving your preference. 

Dress by Lina Vaz

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Fashion Noir

Noir is the latest fashion obsession, mostly associated with stylish Hollywood crime dramas from the early 1940s to late 1950s, it has captured different designers' imagination with its striking visual narratives. Film Noir heroines are mysterious and empowered, just as some of the women who have emerged on the catwalk for the coming season.

Ava Gardner in The Killers, 1946. Bottega Veneta and Gucci 

Different labels are using this suggestive word for their latest fragrances: Tom Ford, Givenchy and Chanel. The iconic number 5 bottle has a new found prominence, it looks super chic in black, Coco Chanel's favoured colour.

The September cover of French Vogue magazine celebrates black's vibrant energy with amazing photographs by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott. After all the recent frills and girlie sorbet colours, Autumn/Winter is looking paradoxically dark, anticipating a need to gain strength. 

Vogue Paris September 2012 issue. Valentino and Alexander McQueen 

If you look to the latest films, we are drawn to female characters who embody power. Just as in the Film Noir era, they are not easy to read and can strike at any given moment. Charlize Theron is simply breathtaking as an evil queen.

Charlize Theron in Snow White and the Huntsman, 2012.
Jenny Packham and Givenchy 

Anne Hathaway is also captivating as catwoman: fierce, sexy and bordering fetishist. Some designers seem to have fallen in love with this kind of attitude, but just as yin and yang, it's always circling around in and out of fashion. 

Anne Hathaway in The Dark Knight Rises (2012). Versace and Pucci

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Olympics Closing Ceremony

London is a proud city after the amazing Olympic Games closing ceremony, which featured a wide range of stars, from music and ballet to fashion. British fashion industry was given a special place, with a set of pictures commissioned by Vogue magazine taking centre stage.

Lily Cole (Erdem), Karen Elson (Burberry), Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell
(both in Alexander McQueen). Photo: hollywoodreporter.com 

Midas Touch, by fashion editor Lucinda Chambers, was published in the September issue. Nick Knight's fantastic photographs, displayed in huge trucks, were ripped off revealing celebrity models wearing fabulous golden pieces by star British designers.  

Karen Elson wearing Burberry
(Vogue's fashion shoot detail)

The closing ceremony was as hectic as London itself, with rhythm and an eclectic mix of performers, undoubtedly an accurate portrait of its edgy and vibrant energy. Unable to get a last minute ticket, I ended up joining many people watching the ceremony together in one of the big screens across the city.

Maddox club beach bar at Forman's Fish Island Riviera

The Maddox club beach bar at Forman's Fish Island Riviera was close enough to the Olympic stadium and the whole atmosphere was almost as enthusiastic with people singing along, dancing and cheering. The fireworks display was definitely the cherry on the top of the cake!

Maddox club beach bar at Forman's Fish Island Riviera

It was an unforgettable evening where millions of people around the world have joined together to celebrate sport. Athletes are such an inspiring example of determination, hard work and open-mindedness! John Lennon's words continue to resonate inside us and sadly we still have to 'imagine all the people living life in peace...'



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