Fashion Editorial Week

New York Fashion Week may be under way but the most newsworthy events in the industry didn't occur on the catwalk but inside the glossy pages. The close-knitted relationship between retailers and publishers has been gaining momentum for a while, reaching its pinnacle with the publication of the highly anticipated and somewhat controversial Porter magazine.

Lucy Yeomans, editor-in-chief of Porter magazine and Natalie Massenet, Net-a-Porter's Executive Chairwoman 

From Vogue's Fashion Night Out to online shopping inside magazine websites, this is a win-win situation as they feed off one another. Retailers such as Top Shop and My Wardrobe have also hired women who were previously working in the publishing industry. But this is the first time in history that a global luxury retailer - Net-a-Porter.com - publishes a glossy magazine.

The sky is the limit for Massenet who is certainly one of the most powerful voices in the fashion industry at the moment. The new magazine is not overtly focused on shopping (although its iPad version will be) and features are toward the front for a change. 

We can also expect the most talented individuals in the field such as Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, who photographed the cover. But, apart from being global, without the restrictions of being confined to a particular country, what does it offer in terms of content? 

Aimed at "stylish intelligent women", there is not much indication about thought provoking features. Nowadays, magazines are incredibly superficial without much to read at all. It would definitely be worth producing a truly global magazine in terms of content too, featuring different cultures, lifestyles and other creative areas by qualified and conscientious journalists.

Kate Moss magazine covers

But these are not the only news in publishing; Kate Moss, the woman the world loves to watch, decided to venture behind the camera as fashion editor for British Vogue, editing a fabulous shoot photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. "Perhaps not every editor takes her model out partying on the first night of the shoot" writes Alexandra Shulman on her editor's letter.

Daria Werbowy on Vogue UK March 2014 styled by Kate Moss

Kate Moss is known for not giving interviews and remains a mysterious figure despite being one of the most photographed women in the world. After turning 40 this year, her career shows no signs of slowing down and she continues to inspire others such as Dominique Miceli, director of Looking for Kate, an "unauthorised" documentary.

Kate Moss at Bailey's Stardust exhibition

She has also seduced the art world and graced gallery walls; the latest exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery - Bailey's Stardust - features an incredible portrait of her by the renowned photographer David Bailey. If you're in London or planning to visit the city in the near future, don't miss the opportunity to closely observe his amazing work. I leave you with "Kate Moss, Creating a Icon", a film by Nicola Graef.

Bailey's Stardust

6 February - 1 June 2014

National Portrait Gallery

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Top Magazine Covers

It's the million dollar question, what is the secret behind the success of a magazine cover? Some covers become iconic and represent the spirit of a decade or a particular creative mind while others are simply breathtaking. How can a magazine stand out among many others on the newsstand? 

Iconic: British Vogue May 2003, Interview March 1977, Harper's Bazaar September 1992

"The swift and far-reaching changes associated with the rise of the celebrity style-leader, the spectacular new theatricals of the fashion industry and the ever expanding proliferation of luxury consumables would have counted for little without the publicity engendered by the mass-produced images and texts that accompanied and preceded them" writes Christopher Breward on his book Fashion. 

Lascivious: Numéro September 2002, Love September 2010, Pop Spring-Summer 2005

These words are still valid for today's magazine industry so much so that Anna Wintour, the most renowned and influential editor of our time, described Vogue as much more than a magazine, "it is a superbrand" (quote from In Vogue, The Illustrated History of the World's Most Famous Fashion Magazine).  

Surprising: Love Spring/Summer 2013, Vogue May 15 1941, Spanish Harper's Bazaar April 2013

"We should never underestimate the element of surprise, which plays a crucial role in the taking of cover shoots." Tonne Goodman 

It's fascinating to read about the evolution of 'fashion on the page', how much everything has changed and how magazines have managed to adapt, maintaining their authority and even challenging fashion itself as a benchmark of standards of taste and beauty. Diana Vreeland, the legendary style icon, transformed American Vogue in the 60s with bold and spectacular fashion narratives.

Fun: Life February 18 1926, Vogue April 1968, Harper's Bazaar June/July 2013

"A new dress doesn't get you anywhere; it's the life you're living in the dress, and the sort of life you had lived before, and what you do in it later." Diana Vreeland

Her enthusiasm for life and her view of fashion as the ultimate fantasy were reflected on the magazine pages and today these images continue to be a reference and express the unique characteristics of a particular period in time which continues to inspire current style communicators.

Peace & Love: Love Autumn/Winter 2011, Italian Vogue August 2005, French Vogue November 2010 

In a world where style is blurring and redefining itself through a myriad of images taken on the street and on the red carpet and when so many voices dictate what to wear, it can be difficult for magazines to retain their power, particularly when their connection with retail is more and more intertwined. 

Eye contact: Interview April 2012, Vogue May 1975, French Vogue September 2008

But for fashion aficionados nothing beats the glossy pages, from the theatrical viewpoint to the "real woman" approach, today's magazines combine fantasy and reality but this demands a fine balance not easily achieved. When facing a newsstand, many smiling faces look at us but what really catches our attention? 

Headpiece: Interview January 1973, Chinese Numéro December 2011, Vogue December 1968

As in a job interview, a decision is taken within seconds even if we're not aware of it. The titles do obviously matter but often the image of the cover reflects the style of content inside the magazine. We may not be able to "judge a book by its cover" but this doesn't apply to magazines, as it is undoubtedly the first contact point with the 'brand'.

Beauty: Vogue August 1939, Vogue January 1950, Harper's Bazaar June 1940

        

Going through the most memorable magazine covers of all time, some key elements stand out. A captivating image usually reflects the zeitgeist but in particular cases it can be timeless or even iconic. Surprise can also add to the magic, when we're presented with something unexpected as the amazing "Kate cleans up" Love cover.

Fantasy: Vogue November 15 1917, Numéro December 1999_ January 2000, Vogue, April 1918

The fun element is definitely underestimated, this is not about smiling but the expression of a vibrant and joyful energy. Fantasy is also crucial, it's an open space where illustration, technology, extraordinary headpieces and time travel can provoke a strong impression, impossible to define. Eye contact is a common feature on the cover of a magazine, becoming more powerful when expressing a challenging attitude.

Exercise: Vogue June 1940, Pop Autumn/Winter 2002-03, Vogue October 2002 

The body can also take centre stage on lascivious covers exuding sensuality or exercise focused images, featuring it as a blank canvas for fashion. Nonetheless it's difficult to pinpoint what exactly makes a great cover, it's like alchemy, it results from the fusion of many elements and people working together. We simply recognise it at first glance!



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Power Stylists
Masters of Fashion Illustration
Homage to Diana Vreeland, a Fashion Icon

Masters of Fashion Illustration

Fashion illustration is often overlooked in a world where technology is ever pervasive. The immediacy of instant communication and photo sharing provokes a very fleeting attention span which affects the way we perceive and interpret what is around us. 

Lily Cole by David Downton in Masters of Fashion Illustration 

It takes time to appreciate a drawing with its subtleties and innuendos, expressed through precise lines and splashes of colour. As fashion illustrator David Downton said in his talk at the V&A, "people have to fill in the gaps".  

Today it is a rare occasion to see fashion illustrations in magazines but throughout their history, there were many memorable artists whose dazzling work contributed to their role as a talent platform far beyond today's window display attitude. 

"Before the rise of photography it was artists who interpreted the work of great designers. Essentially they invented fashion illustration as an art form." David Downton

James Bond movie posters (Barbican exhibition) 

When he was a teenager, David Downton enjoyed copying movie posters at home and he was able to draw for a living but fashion only entered his life aged 36, when he was asked to go to Paris haute couture shows. The first show he saw was by Versace the year before the designer died. 

This marked the beginning of a journey which has made him one of today's leading fashion artists, following the footsteps of the fashion illustrators he had studied in the past. Masters of Illustration guides us through the greatest "image makers who have managed to put a stamp on a time". 

Fashion illustration by René Gruau (source: christies.com) 

In his opinion, René Gruau was the greatest fashion artist of all but he is not on the book due to publishing constraints. However there are a number of beautiful monographs on him listed on page 217.

"What interests me is the combination of people and clothes." David Downton

After the highest moments of fashion illustration, we're graced with David Downton's own work, elegant images capturing glamour with precision and energy. Fashion is so intertwined with his work that even his portraits are highly stylised and convey the strength of a distinct personality.  

Dita Von Teese by David Downton in Masters of Fashion Illustration 

These two elements are present in any iconic fashion image you can think of, it's all about extraordinary style mixed with a bold attitude. He called his work a varnished truth, truthful but polished. I find it not only eye-catching but terribly inspiring!

Book cover

Masters of Illustration
by David Downton
(£19.95, Laurence King Publishing)




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