Fashion Editorial Week

New York Fashion Week may be under way but the most newsworthy events in the industry didn't occur on the catwalk but inside the glossy pages. The close-knitted relationship between retailers and publishers has been gaining momentum for a while, reaching its pinnacle with the publication of the highly anticipated and somewhat controversial Porter magazine.

Lucy Yeomans, editor-in-chief of Porter magazine and Natalie Massenet, Net-a-Porter's Executive Chairwoman 

From Vogue's Fashion Night Out to online shopping inside magazine websites, this is a win-win situation as they feed off one another. Retailers such as Top Shop and My Wardrobe have also hired women who were previously working in the publishing industry. But this is the first time in history that a global luxury retailer - Net-a-Porter.com - publishes a glossy magazine.

The sky is the limit for Massenet who is certainly one of the most powerful voices in the fashion industry at the moment. The new magazine is not overtly focused on shopping (although its iPad version will be) and features are toward the front for a change. 

We can also expect the most talented individuals in the field such as Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, who photographed the cover. But, apart from being global, without the restrictions of being confined to a particular country, what does it offer in terms of content? 

Aimed at "stylish intelligent women", there is not much indication about thought provoking features. Nowadays, magazines are incredibly superficial without much to read at all. It would definitely be worth producing a truly global magazine in terms of content too, featuring different cultures, lifestyles and other creative areas by qualified and conscientious journalists.

Kate Moss magazine covers

But these are not the only news in publishing; Kate Moss, the woman the world loves to watch, decided to venture behind the camera as fashion editor for British Vogue, editing a fabulous shoot photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. "Perhaps not every editor takes her model out partying on the first night of the shoot" writes Alexandra Shulman on her editor's letter.

Daria Werbowy on Vogue UK March 2014 styled by Kate Moss

Kate Moss is known for not giving interviews and remains a mysterious figure despite being one of the most photographed women in the world. After turning 40 this year, her career shows no signs of slowing down and she continues to inspire others such as Dominique Miceli, director of Looking for Kate, an "unauthorised" documentary.

Kate Moss at Bailey's Stardust exhibition

She has also seduced the art world and graced gallery walls; the latest exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery - Bailey's Stardust - features an incredible portrait of her by the renowned photographer David Bailey. If you're in London or planning to visit the city in the near future, don't miss the opportunity to closely observe his amazing work. I leave you with "Kate Moss, Creating a Icon", a film by Nicola Graef.

Bailey's Stardust

6 February - 1 June 2014

National Portrait Gallery

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Happy 2014!

It's that time of the year again, when we make new resolutions about all kinds of stuff. The wish list may be short or long but is it achievable? How many of last year's resolutions did we manage to fulfill? I always write them on the first page of my diary to make sure I go back to the list from time to time. 

It's all about making the most of life, like a good surfer, the main point is to keep the balance no matter how strong the wave is. Even if you find yourself landing flat on the shore or falling on the ocean without being able to breath, sooner or later the tide will change.

The fear of falling may be as overwhelming as the desire to be on top, but at the end of the day it doesn't really matter where you find yourself in; as Ernest Hemingway said "it is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end." 

Gemma Ward photographed by Corinne Day for Vogue UK, July 2006

This may seem like common sense but as David Bailey said on the presentation of his forthcoming exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery, "common sense is not that common anymore." Today I've watched the Bling Ring directed by Sofia Coppola. She's remarkable when is comes to depicting the naivety of youth, it's all about having fun without malice or awareness of consequences.

This film, based on true events, reveals a dark corner of the fashion industry boosted by celebrity endorsements. This phenomenon has spiraled out of control to the point of becoming detrimental to an emerging generation who just wants to be rich and famous. The lack of common sense couldn't be any more evident.

   

But it's important to be aware that "fame or infamy are basic human reactions to desiring the simple thing we all want. To be told we are great, to be told we are needed and to be told we are loved." Nick Knight writes these words on the introduction to Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! book.

But do we actually tell people they're great? Do we tell them they're needed? Do we tell them they're loved? Certainly not often enough. And the world definitely needs more love among individuals, communities and countries. When the Dalai Lama visited New York he remarked: "millions of people living together and there's so much loneliness." May we all be able to enjoy paddling through the waves with grace and love! Happy 2014! 

Kirsten Dunst for Prada and Rihanna for Balmain (ad campaigns)

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Looking Forward to Bailey's Stardust!

Looking forward to Bailey's Stardust!

David Bailey's portraits are timeless, there's something inexplicable about them that make us stop and stare. We will be able to get an idea about his amazing body of work at the National Portrait Gallery in February 2014. Bailey's Stardust will be one of the Gallery's largest scale photographic exhibitions and it includes previously unseen work.

Even though he's now an old man, his vibrant energy is contagious and his answers unexpected. He's disarmingly genuine and this openness is probably one of the reasons why his work is so striking. "I fall in love with them, they become the centre of my universe for a couple of hours or even a day", said Bailey about the people he photographs. 

Jerry Hall and Helmut Newton, Cannes by David Bailey, 1983 © David Bailey

He referred to the quote "everyone has a story" by the American film director, screenwriter and playwright Neil LaBute when describing the portraiture process. "You need to find the story without judgement or moralisation." Above all, you can sense his free spirit which is enticing. 

A portrait is always a communication between subject and object and when they come together magic happens. The portraits, spanning over five decades, have been personally selected by Bailey as was also the title of this exhibition. "Stardust is one of my favourite songs of all times and we will all turn to dust, we're all part of the same, it's what makes us humans." 

Mick Jagger by David Bailey, 1964 © David Bailey

What seduces you more about this exhibition? Is it the new portrait of Kate Moss? The remarkable amount of interesting famous people? Or strangers from India? It doesn't really matter. Just take the opportunity to be inspired by one of the world's leading photographers. 

Bailey's Stardust

National Portrait Gallery

6 February - 1 June 2014

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