On the Pulse of Fashion

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Check out my new website! - Lina Vaz 

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After all the catwalk shows it's time to look ahead and try to figure out what's coming up in terms of shapes, colours and fabrics. Bear in mind fashion trends are becoming increasingly fluid, so this is my own edit and interpretation of the collections for Autumn/Winter 2014-15. 

Givenchy, Alexander McQueen and Valentino

For me, it's not only about expressing feelings and ideas but also about the simple pleasure of wearing something elegant and beautiful wherever life may take you. Having said that, I have to start with otherworldly pieces, significant in their message of transformation, mystical transcendence and love. 

Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and J. Mendel

Maybe we're starting a period of spiritual maturity so much needed in a world stricken by political upheaval. Love is definitely the answer against self-centred attitudes and short term vision, it's important to consider future generations and what we're building up for them. 

Valentino, Lanvin and Balenciaga

Let's not leave everything to politicians, do we really care about all those we come in contact with, despite living with so much speed? It's impressive the amount of people who rush in the morning literally running to catch the next train, often bumping into each other, without realizing it would be enough to get up ten minutes earlier to avoid causing stress. 

Balmain, Gucci and Emilio Pucci

If we were fortunate enough to grow up receiving love it's our responsibility to share it with the world around us. Caring is the best protection against aggressive attitudes just as coats are the best we can wear to shield us from cold temperatures. Looking at next season's collections, there are plenty of amazing pieces with colourful fur either as an adornment or second skin. In terms of colours, midnight blue, yellow and dark red seem to be key.

Etro, Vivienne Westwood and Gucci

It's impressive how some designers still manage to connect with their creative energy despite the pressure to produce so many collections per year. Matthew Williamson has created an amazing black and white dress and other designers were also inspired by this timeless colour combination.

Givenchy, Mathew Williamson and J. Mendel

Night and day, darkness and light, contrasting forces are always dynamic and when balanced in sync can take us beyond fixed viewpoints. The burning heat of passionate energy was tangible during Roberto Cavalli's show, when the catwalk was literally on fire, in a magical circular display.

Roberto Cavalli, Prada and Givenchy

There's no time to get stuck in activities that are not fulfilling but focus in whatever we find ourselves doing with the same carefree attention of an artist. Maybe the future is not about fighting to succeed but to surrender. But my selection wouldn't be complete without a bit of sparkle... 

Emilio Pucci, Antonio Berardi and Matthew Williamson

It's impossible to finish this catwalk edit without the party vibe. Shimmering fabrics and figure hugging pieces are simply fabulous to go out and have a good time. "Can you dance to my beat?"  

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Couture Fairy Tale

Summer heat is no longer a wish but a reality, Londoners are enjoying an amazing weather, making the most of the beautiful parks and ponds in the city. But this is the time to write about Paris instead, haute couture shows have recently enchanted us with their fairy tale feel. Women have emerged on the catwalk as characters of a novel from a distant past.

Valentino and Alexis Mabille (photos edited from vogue.it)

You can always find fabulous dresses to wear on the red carpet, particularly on Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad shows. They are simply precise about what their customers expect and successfully respond to their wish of looking stunning with beautifully crafted pieces. But overall, the latest couture shows have given life to women we tend to picture when reading a period novel. 

Atelier Versace and Ulyana Sergeenko (photos edited from vogue.it)

We enjoy picturing a fantasy world populated by heroines who are brave enough to live life to the full, going beyond expectations. They inspire us to look at ourselves more deeply and the way we act; sometimes it's worth going back to our childhood openness and continue asking why. It's not about coming up with definitive answers but to develop though this ongoing process. 

Christophe Josse and Giambattista Valli (photos edited from vogue.it)

Designers have certainly personified a quiet storm with demure women exuding power. Elaborate pieces often adorned with a cape intensify the drama. Fashion always looks forward but it also draws inspiration from the past and this nostalgia brings up a new breed of creative input. 

Elie Saab and Giorgio Armani Privé (photos edited from vogue.it)

Sometimes it can be rather dark as it was the case of Viktor & Rolf and Chanel, but despite the colour it's all about fantasy. Our minds are adorned with dreams, these veils may lead us to somewhere meaningful and worthwhile. Valentino has certainly looked into timeless fantasies to produce its latest exquisite collection.  

Viktor & Rolf and Chanel (photos edited from vogue.it)

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have definitely put their own stamp in the brand, defining their style as they go along. The same can be said about Raf Simons for Christian Dior, both brands have departed from their previously built image bringing up their own fresh take on it.

Christian Dior and Valentino (photos edited from vogue.it)

  

We can see this process of creation and destruction all around us, including in our own lives. Without wanting to get too personal, it has been difficult to update my blog due to challenging circumstances but this is still a passion and I will always update it whenever possible. 

"Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life." Bill Cunningham

Vionnet and Alexandre Vauthier (photos edited from vogue.it)

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Read Paris Haute Couture

Fashion today is open to whoever wants to follow it, trends are becoming more and more merely open guidelines. Bill Cunningham speaks about the "globalisation of fashion" in one of his latest On the Street videos, with people adapting fashion to their own culture and sexuality, going beyond the "antiquated idea of good or bad taste". 

Christian Dior and Giambattista Valli latest couture shows
(Photos edited from vogue.it)

This freedom to edit our own style should be celebrated and encouraged but if we love fashion it's important to develop our knowledge about it and learn from its ultimate heritage: haute couture. Anne Zazzo and Olivier Sillard have written a reference book spanning from the beginning of this exquisite craft in 1858.

Balenciaga, evening ensemble, August 1967. Gazar d’Abraham fabric, polyamide tulle, appliqués of taffeta flowers made from crinkled silk and ostrich feathers. © Katerina Jebb

Paris Haute Couture, recently published in the UK by Flammarion, takes us on a journey throughout the evolution of dressmaking, from Charles Frederick Worth and Balenciaga to Yves Saint Laurent and Viktor & Rolf. This comprehensive history examines not only the role of the designer but also the relationship between haute couture and the client.

Carven, Extase evening gown, 1945. Top in cellulose acetate rayon knit, skirt in pekin fabric and cellulose acetate rayon. © Katerina Jebb

In Paris couture houses have always attracted worldwide attention for elegance and glamour. They were disrupted by the wartime occupation of Paris when private clients dispersed. The Germans planned to move couture to Berlin but Lucien Lelong, president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, objected saying 'It is in Paris or it is nowhere.' 

Fath, evening gown, winter 1951. Cellulose acetate rayon satin. © Katerina Jebb

This is still true today, the production of couture is important to the prestige of France and Paris continues to be its centre stage. Some couture houses lasted for generations others only as long as their founders were alive. While traditionally catering for wealthy private clients, they also sought new markets by creating perfumes and opening boutiques. 

Book cover

By the late 1950s, the leading couture houses have become global brands. Couture will always be special, it's not about selling clothes but executing orders and as Hardy Amies pointed out "the whole process should be a harmonious co-operation between designer, tailor and customer." 

Elie Saab and Valentino latest couture shows
(Photos edited from vogue.it)

The artistry and craftsmanship of a couture dress requires time, it's the opposite of the prevalent attitude of "I want it now". This focus on timeless and incredibly beautiful pieces adapted to a particular person is what makes couture unique and its precious legacy survives in the remaining grand houses of Paris. 



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Couture Fit for Stars

Paris always becomes brighter during the couture shows, it's interesting to see what fashion can become without any financial constraints. Designers give free reign to their creativity and select the most exquisite fabrics and technical expertise to produce some of the most beautiful clothes in the world.

Atelier Versace and Zuhair Murad (photos edited from vogue.it)

  

Just as a good piece of art can blow our mind away without needing to own it, for most of us couture belongs to a fantasy realm where we are free to admire the incredible beauty and craftsmanship, even if we know we'll never be able to afford it. Valentino said "women want to be beautiful" and it's true, even men who are totally oblivious to fashion can remember a particular dress.

Valentino and Elie Saab (photos edited from vogue.it)

Fashion's ability to make people feel and look special is quite extraordinary and ironically becomes more vivid in challenging economic times. If we have to limit our purchases we tend to be more selective and choose something remarkable and long lasting, the so-called 'investment pieces'. 

Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab (photos edited from vogue.it)

For some women in the world, particularly in Russia and the Middle East, this is their lifestyle and they always demand the best. So designers have to challenge themselves in order to come up with increasingly beautiful couture gowns to impress their savvy clients. They are also put to the test on the red carpet where more and more film stars wear couture, opening the door to worldwide scrutiny. 

Giambattista Valli and Valentino (photos edited from vogue.it)

The success of sheers and see-through effects on the latest red carpet event - think Rachel Weisz in Louis Vuitton - seem to have inspired some designers to develop this idea further. Another success on the Golden Globes' red carpet was the cinderella dress and you could also see it on the catwalk. It was impossible not to picture Vivien Leigh on Ulyana Sergeenko's show.

Christian Dior and Ulyana Sergeenko (photos edited from vogue.it)

Couture customers also include a few pop stars who make millions a year and who also have to think carefully about their image and the way people perceive them. Music performances require elaborate outfits which enable stars to feel empowered and shine, so it's hardly surprising to see unconventional couture pieces on the latest couture shows in Paris.

Alexandre Vauthier and Iris Van Herpern (photos edited from vogue.it)

Also fit for stars is the classic black and white combination, always an elegant statement. Overall, couture is always an inspiring spectacle! Highly anticipated, these shows are the crowning jewel of fashion and as customers expand designers are also challenged to venture into new territories. The sky is the limit!

Giambattista Valli and Ulyana Sergeenko (photos edited from vogue.it)

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Valentino: Master of Couture

Valentino is such an iconic figure! His name is synonym with the world of couture and his career is truly extraordinary, spanning over four decades and covering some of the most exciting periods in the history of fashion.

Valentino

Last evening, Colin McDowell interviewed him and Giancarlo Giammetti in the beautiful Lancaster Room at Savoy Hotel, a memorable event followed by an exclusive viewing of the "Valentino: Master of Couture" exhibition at Somerset House.

Colin McDowell, Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti at Savoy Hotel

He learned how to design in Paris and has spent eight years of his life designing for others before opening his own couture house in Italy, when he was only 24. His famous white collection exploded all over the world and Valentino became a superstar, dressing the most elegant women such as Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy, whom he described as a "fantastic muse." 

Jacqueline Kennedy in Valentino, 1967

As McDowell said, Giancarlo Giammetti is "equally as important". He has been Valentino's right arm, taking care of the business side of the fashion empire they have built together. The bond and love between them is impressive, they have been sharing their lives for over fifty years and when Valentino received the Légion de honneur in Paris, he was in tears when expressing his gratitude to Giammetti. 

Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti

Valentino has influenced a wide range of designers, for instance the technique of mixing different lace patterns for the wedding dress of Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece in 1995 (one of the highlights of this marvellous exhibition) was replicated by Sarah Burton for the Duchess of Cambridge's wedding. 

Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece wedding

His magnificent collections presented in the Spanish steps in Rome during the 1990's are imprinted in my memory. I remember growing up and watching his shows in the television screen, mesmerised by the beauty and magic of fashion. He will definitely continue to inspire future generations with his online archives, where we can see some of his most iconic dresses and watch videos of outstanding events. 

Bianca Jagger and Valentino, 1974

Valentino still loves to design and has recently created the costumes for the New York City Ballet. At the end of the performance he was asked to go on stage and bowed to the audience. When he lifted his head he realised he was receiving a standing ovation from over two thousand people. 

But it's impossible to write about him without mentioning the "Valentino Red" which goes back a long way. When he was 17 and working in Paris for a couturier, he was asked to go to Barcelona and invited to the opening night of the Opera House, where there was a lot of red. He thought to himself that if he would ever make it as a designer he would use red to give him good luck.

Valentino presented the British Style Award to Alexa Chung at this year's ceremony
(photo: fashion.telegraph.co.uk)

Apart from his unique talent, what is also fascinating about him is the way he has always managed to capture the most stylish women throughout the years. In the exhibition it's possible to acknowledge this, from royalty to the silver screen, from the past to the present, the most elegant women in the world have worn his fabulous dresses. 



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Dating Style

In today's wired world, technology plays such as pervasive role that our lives get more and more intertwined with it. It's not just a work tool or a way of entertaining ourselves, it has gone beyond news and information research to become much more personal.

Top: Chloe, skirt: Mary Katrantzou, shoes: Gianvito Rossi, clutch: Anya Hindmarch

Social media is now indispensable to promote brands and to connect them on a deeper level to target audiences. Technology has also proven successful in finding romance, offering ease and convenience. Most people chat with a potential date online for one or two weeks before meeting up in person, which is a fairly quick process.

Top: Helmut Lang, skirt: Valentino, shoes: Christian Louboutin, clutch: Bottega Veneta

There are concerns about safety on dating sites but the lack of honesty is one of the most common pitfalls. Women lie about their looks whilst men lie about their jobs. This is probably why most people stalk their potential dates online before meeting up in person. 

Orlando Bloom and Miranda Kerr (photo: fanpop.com)

Women also read profiles more closely than men, who spend more time reviewing photos. These multiple surveys' results raise fundamental questions about us... Despite its growing popularity, my attitude towards online dating is quite skeptical. 

Dress: Antonio Berardi, shoes: Gucci, clutch: Alexander McQueen

But whether online or offline (most married couples meet through work or friends), a date is always a pleasurable experience even if it is with someone who is already our partner. London has a lot to offer when it comes to beautifully designed restaurants and bars and in the summer there's nothing like rooftop drinking! Have fun!

Dress: Mary Katrantzou, shoes: Sergio Rossi, clutch: YSL

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Fashion Noir

Noir is the latest fashion obsession, mostly associated with stylish Hollywood crime dramas from the early 1940s to late 1950s, it has captured different designers' imagination with its striking visual narratives. Film Noir heroines are mysterious and empowered, just as some of the women who have emerged on the catwalk for the coming season.

Ava Gardner in The Killers, 1946. Bottega Veneta and Gucci 

Different labels are using this suggestive word for their latest fragrances: Tom Ford, Givenchy and Chanel. The iconic number 5 bottle has a new found prominence, it looks super chic in black, Coco Chanel's favoured colour.

The September cover of French Vogue magazine celebrates black's vibrant energy with amazing photographs by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott. After all the recent frills and girlie sorbet colours, Autumn/Winter is looking paradoxically dark, anticipating a need to gain strength. 

Vogue Paris September 2012 issue. Valentino and Alexander McQueen 

If you look to the latest films, we are drawn to female characters who embody power. Just as in the Film Noir era, they are not easy to read and can strike at any given moment. Charlize Theron is simply breathtaking as an evil queen.

Charlize Theron in Snow White and the Huntsman, 2012.
Jenny Packham and Givenchy 

Anne Hathaway is also captivating as catwoman: fierce, sexy and bordering fetishist. Some designers seem to have fallen in love with this kind of attitude, but just as yin and yang, it's always circling around in and out of fashion. 

Anne Hathaway in The Dark Knight Rises (2012). Versace and Pucci

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