Design for Performance

Whenever we watch a play, concert or performance, we rarely think of the elaborate designers' creative process of combining different elements in order to create its own narrative.

Lady Gaga's Monster Ball tour (2009-10), Set design & Photograph by Es Devlin

The last play I've seen - Wild Swans - had a mesmerising array of different imagery, from video projections to physical objects, smells and sounds which definitely played an important role to communicate the intricate lives of three generations of women.

Rushes - Fragments of a Lost Story, (c) Royal Opera House April 2008

Designers dwell behind the scenes and can be easily underestimated but what they do is incredibly significant when it comes to the audience's impact and experience. 

Agrippina, Openhaus Zurich, May 2009
Costumes by Marie-Jeanne Lecca

Transformation and Revelation: Gormley to Gaga celebrates the best of British performance design over the last four years, featuring set models, costumes, photographs, drawings, lighting designs and sound productions.

Sutra - a Sadler's Wells London Production, May 2008
(c) Hugo Glendinning

Designs include Sutra by Antony Gormley, War Horse by Rae Smith and Lady Gaga's Monster Ball Tour by Es Devlin. I was fortunate enough to be at Sadlers Wells when Sutra was presented.

It was an amazing dance work inspired by the skill, strenght and spirituality of Buddhist Shaolin monks by the celebrated Flemish/Moroccan choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui. He has collaborated with Turner Prize-winning artist Antony Gormley, who has created 21 wooden boxes repositioned to create an ever changing on-stage environment.

Billy Budd, Glyndebourne, May 2012
Set and costume designer Chirs Oram, (c) Alastair Muir

I can only recommend this fabulous display of contemporary performances which brings the designer from behind the scenes to the forefront. Es Devlin, Lady Gaga's Monster Ball tour set designer, is currently working on the closing ceremony of London 2012 Olympic Games (12 August). Something to look forward to!

Transformation and Revelation: From Gormley to Gaga

UK design for performance 2007-11

Curated by Kate Bailey and Peter Farley

V&A, until 30 September 2012

Other related blog posts:

Wild Swans

Shoot for the Stars! Designers & Showbiz

V&A Unveils Hollywood Glamour

Heatherwick Studio

You may not know who Thomas Heatherwick is but I'm sure you were stricken by his work at some point. Images of the incredible UK Pavilion Seed Cathedral at Shanghai World Expo (2010) have been published all over the place.

UK Pavilion Seed Cathedral, Shanghai Expo, China 2010 © Iwan Baan

The pavilion contained 250,000 seeds that were preserved like precious jewels in the ends of the acrylic rods. Sunlight would pass through the rods, illuminating the seeds and creating a cathedral-like atmosphere inside. 

Bleigiessen, Wellcome Trust, London, UK 2005 © Steve Speller

As Louboutin said during the presentation of his retrospective at the Design Museum, 'everything around us is designed'. Wouldn't it be amazing if everyone designed with the same passion and care as Thomas Heatherwick? 

Teesside Power Station, Stockton-On-Tees, Teesside, UK 2011 © Heatherwick Studio

He has the supreme capacity of transforming the ordinary into extraordinary as anyone who visits his first major solo exhibition - opening this week at the V&A - can acknowledge.

Rolling Bridge, Paddington Basin, London, UK 2004 © Steve Speller

It includes contextual photographs, maquettes, prototypes and material fragments which offer an insight into the studio's design processes. Since the start of his career, Heatherwick has worked with an extensive range of design disciplines and has shown a persistence of vision.

"Heatherwick is constantly challenging us with his ideas and pushing boundaries in art and design." Martin Roth, Director of the V&A

Heatherwick Studio: Designing the Extraordinary
© V&A Images

His studio is currently working on one of my favourite designs - A Thousand Trees - defined by a landscape grid of 1000-tree topped columns. The trees surround the façade of the residential and office units merging organically nature with architecture.

I was always disturbed by the lack of green spaces in big cities, wishing architects would always incorporate nature with buildings in the form of roof gardens, but this is definitely a much more clever solution.

Heatherwick Studio: Designing the Extraordinary
© V&A Images

Another really exciting ongoing project is a public park in Abu Dhabi, intended to be a celebration of the desert. Alluding to the cracked earth of a dry desert floor, the design resembles an elevated desert surface, broken apart to reveal an oasis of rich plant growth and shaded public spaces beneath.  

If you want to know more about one of the world's most innovative designers, Thomas Heatherwick: Making presents an exhaustive overview covering the studio's entire history.


Heatherwick Studio: Designing the Extraordinary
Curated by Abraham Thomas
31 May - 30 September 2012
V&A



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Park and Barbecue Style

This is the time to embrace the hot weather and go outside! Londoners are particularly fond of the great parks the city has proudly maintained throughout its evolution, despite the difficult challenges associated with population's growth.




Hat: Eugenia Kim, sunglasses: Marc by Marc Jacobs, bag: Givenchy



Different locations across the city provide these cherished green spaces to walk around and sunbathe. It's really cool to see everyone enjoying the sunshine like lizards warming up their bellies in the wild.

Hat: Eugenia Kim, sunglasses: Tom Ford, bag: Marni

From Hyde Park to Pimrose Hill and Hampstead Heath, these are like oasis in the desert, where people can replenish their energy levels and relax in a serene mood induced by the primordial contact with nature.

Hat: Erick Javits, sunglasses: Gucci, bag: Phillip Lim

Another great thing about London's lifestyle is without any doubt the barbecue, whoever has a garden or a roof terrace eagerly waits for the hot weather to come in order gather friends for a healthy meal outdoors.

Hat: Eugenia Kim, sunglasses: Miu Miu, bag: Chloe

Barbecues are a great way to socialise and meet people. Sometimes things can get out of control, from people ending up on the roof to strangers joining in without being invited, but it's all about having a good time.

Hat: Free People, sunglasses: Gucci, bag: Mulberry

They can also be themed gatherings where everyone dresses up as a gangster or wears a wig. The barbecue's most common alcoholic drink is definitely Pimm's, a refreshing mix of fruits and mint.

Hat: Sensi Studio, sunglasses: Ray-Ban, bag: Marc by Marc Jacobs

You can also enjoy this fabulous weather on a roof terrace bar, from Aqua to Shoreditch House, which has a fantastic swimming pool. London offers its magnificent views within stylish surroundings and glamorous people.

Hat: Zadig & Voltaire, sunglasses: Valentino, bag: Longchamp

Whatever you do, you will need a hat, sunglasses and a big bag to carry a magazine, a book and a sarong. The most important thing is to enjoy yourself and get as much vitamin D as you can! Smile and be happy!

Hat: Burberry Prorsum, sunglasses: Prada, bag: Givenchy

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Fashion and Breastfeeding

This week, Julia Restoin Roitfeld launched an appeal on Twitter for dresses practical enough to breastfeed her new born baby girl, Romy Nicole Konjic. You would think it's an easy task but after browsing through a wide range of dresses, it's unbelievable how challenging it is to find them!

Marc by Marc Jacobs, Bottega Veneta and Dolce & Gabbana

The vast majority of dresses opens at the back without providing easy access to the woman's breasts, which is quite amazing considering not only our eventual role as mothers but also its erotic purpose.

Stella McCartney, Alice by Temperley and Emilio Pucci

In Coco before Chanel, Arthur "Boy" Capel says to her 'you're so easy to undress!', this fundamental aspect of clothing not only for nights of passion but also for motherhood, is certainly underestimated in the fashion industry.

Roberto Cavalli, Diane Von Furstenberg and Lanvin

Somehow, I've managed to find a few stylish dresses which are easy enough to breastfeed your baby. These three long gowns are particularly suited for the evening and glamorous events. To wear during the day, there's nothing like a dress with a zip at the front!

Diane Von Furstenberg, MCQ by Alexander McQueen and Diane Von Furstenberg

Another alternative, although not as fast, is a dress with buttons at the front which also provides an easy access to the breasts. (For some unknown reason some online retail sites cut the models' faces, so I do apologize for the lack of coherence within the images displayed.)

Diane Von Furstenberg, MCQ by Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood

I hope to have helped the mothers and women in general who like to undress as quickly as possible. Maybe designers should think more about this when designing dresses, there is definitely a gap in the market. If you're in London, go outside as soon as you can and enjoy this glorious weather!



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Ballgowns: Dress to Impress
Artistic Dress
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Temperley Party at Bicester Village

Temperley London invited friends, family and VIPs to an exclusive event at Bicester Village, showcasing evening wear, summer party dresses and wedding outfits perfect for upcoming season's events.

This was also a great opportunity to have a signed copy of True British, a book celebrating 10 years of an amazing career in the fashion industry by Alice Temperley, who creates incredibly romantic and feminine clothes.

My collection of precious signed books includes one by Viktor & Rolf, when they had their fantastic exhibition at the Barbican, featuring a gigantic doll's house  with beautiful dolls dressed by the designers.

The event at Bicester Village also included a 'patriotic jumper' for those who want to celebrate the Queen's Jubilee in style. Alice by Temperley is launching the oversized, draped knit made with a Union Jack knitted design for this occasion.

"I am an incredibly proud Brit and wanted to design something as a celebration for this exciting time in Britain. I have always loved the Union Jack and like to use if whenever I can - from clothing to our head office façade and the cover of my first book." Alice Temperley

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Cannes Red Carpet and Female Directors

On occasion of its 65th birthday, the Cannes Film Festival is marred by the absence of female nominees for the Palme D'Or. The only woman to have won the prestigious film award is Jane Campion for her film The Piano in 1993.

Marion Cotillard in Christian Dior

Against facts, there are no arguments. Cannes director, Thierry Fremaux acknowledges that the lack of women selected for Cannes' top prize reflects a wider industry issue.

Diane Kruger in Giambattista Valli

This gender disparity means we end up having a standard of films and particularly of women's roles which do not translate the wider perspective and diversity of human experiences in the world.   

Freida Pinto in Michael Angel

For instance, Caramel, a film directed by a Lebanese woman, Nadine Labaki, which premiered at the 2007 Cannes Film Festival, opened the door to a different culture and offered another viewpoint.

Jennifer Connelly in Gucci

The influential film industry should reflect a wide range of perspectives, the argument so far has been women should not be selected just because they are women, this is a valid point but the question to be asked is why there are so few female directors?

Naomi Watts in Marchesa

Considering women represent half the world's population, they should have a stronger voice not only in the film industry but  also in governments, businesses and science. There is still a lot to be done to create more opportunities for women in these and other areas.

"The studio system is kind of an old boy's system and it's difficult for them to trust women to be capable." Jane Campion

Fan Bingbing in Christopher Bu

The gender disparity needs to be addressed more and more, particularly in high profile events such as these, which attract worldwide media coverage. The lack of female nominees is both shocking and ironic.

The poster girl for Cannes Festival 2012 is Marilyn Monroe and her struggles against stereotyped women's roles and male-dominated movies, which led her to set up her own production company - Marilyn Monroe Productions - are sadly still relevant today.

Eva Longoria in Marchesa

Despite the commercial success of films aimed at women, female directors still need to lead the way in challenging preconceived ideas and reveal our inner strenght which goes far beyond seduction and glamour. 




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Ballgowns: Dress to Impress

There are certain moments in life when a woman lives the fantasy of a fairy tale, transforming herself into a radiant image of beauty, like a flower blooming. This requires a long planning process as there are no wizards to do the trick.

Alexander McQueen

Most women count these moments on their fingers but others have so many red carpet events that this becomes almost a burden. The paparazzi-lined path now focuses worldwide press attention on how glamorous women are dressed.

Such scrutiny imposes pressure on women in the public eye, who dress with particular care, both to avoid negative publicity and to make a media splash. So they gather a whole team of people, from stylists to hair and make up artists to transform them.

Giles

These are the wizards of our time, but the supreme magician is the designer and the supernatural potion is definitely the dress. It can make or break the moment, just as a good photograph, it has the power to immortalise and create an icon.

But what makes magic happen? The woman! Her personality and the dress must combine. Catherine Walker, who designed the 'Elvis Dress' for Princess Diana said no one else could wear it in the same mesmerising way.

State evening ensemble, 'Elvis Dress'

Now you have the chance to see this and other sumptuous ballgowns from the last 60 years at the V&A. Ballgowns: British Glamour since 1950 is the first exhibition in the newly renovated Fashion Galleries. 

It features specially-made designs for social events such as private parties, royal state occasions, debutante balls, opening nights and red carpet events. Since the 1950s, occasions for wearing formal attire have evolved from the private event to the public parade.

Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950

In the post-war period, as Europe struggled toward recovery, extravagant, exclusive balls provided glittering backdrops for splendid couture gowns. Coming out balls, where young women were formally introduced to society, were often the first occasion on which to wear a grand gown.

The emergence of the charity ball in the 1980s provided a new platform for a wider society to dress to impress. More recently it is the red carpet that acts as the most important site of fashionable splendour.

Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950

This exhibition captures the enchanting moments in the lives of different women, dressed by a wide range of designers, from Norman Hartnell to Alexander McQueen.

One of my favourite dresses is by Antonio Berardi, which I've written about on my Christmas Red Dress blog post, the fabric, the cut, the colour... It brings to mind the glamour of the 70s, an extraordinary decade that have just lost one of its brightest stars, Donna Summer.

Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950
Curated by Oriole Cullen and Sonnet Stanfill
19 May 2012 - 6 January 2013
V&A




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Marilyn Monroe by Lawrence Schiller

Marilyn Monroe is the poster girl for this year's Cannes film festival, on occasion of its 65th birthday. Her magnetising sensuality and mesmerizing beauty are still relevant today, she'll always be one of the greatest Hollywood's icons.

If you're in Cannes, this afternoon is the opening of Lawrence Schiller's exhibition and launch of his book Marilyn & Me: A Memoir in Words and Photographs. He is one of the four photographers still alive who has immortalised Marilyn Monroe.

"Marilyn was a photographer's dream subject with her clothes on and even more stunning with them off. She was a week away from her thirty-sixth birthday, and she looked as good as she had ever look." Lawrence Schiller

Lawrence Schiller/ Courtesy Taschen and Steven Kasher Gallery

In 1973, Schiller collaborated with Norman Mailer and twenty-four of the world's foremost photographers on the worldwide best-selling book, Marilyn, which sold 6 million copies in 16 languages.


Since then, he has never published another story about the star and never before in his own words. Taschen's limited edition Marilyn & Me is an insightful vision of her, captured by Schiller when he was a young and ambitious photographer.


"I never wanted to be Marilyn. It just happened. Marilyn is like a veil I wear over Norma Jean." Marilyn Monroe

Marlilyn & Me by Lawrence Schiller (Taschen)

This book allows us to step into Marilyn Monroe's intimacy at the time when the movie Something's Got to Give was being shot. More than a hundred extraordinary photographs from two of her final films, most of them never seen before, contribute to this poignant portrait of her.


Schiller is also premiering his first UK solo exhibition alongside the book launch and signing at Walton Fine Arts gallery in London (24 May - 23 June 2012).

Book cover

Marilyn & Me by Lawrence Schiller
Clic Gallery
18 - 31 May 2012
Cannes



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The Photography of Eve Arnold
The Power of a Dress

Let's Get Physical!

No, I did not grow up in the 80s, but when writing about exercise the song 'Physical' by Australian pop singer Olivia Newton-John, does come to mind. With summer holidays approaching this is definitely your last chance to get fit, so why not do it in style?

Top: Rag & Bone, leggings: Lucas Hugh, trainers: Puma

One of the most popular New Year's eve resolutions is to exercise regularly and in January the gym is always crowded, but unless you apply some effort you won't continue to enjoy its well-known benefits. 

Top: Balmain, leggings: MCQ by Alexander McQueen, trainers: Balenciaga

From supermodels to actresses and music divas, their lifestyle always involves working out. Most of them have a personal trainer and nowadays most gyms offer this service to their members, so there's no excuse to be careless. 

Top: Barbara Bui, leggings: Asos, trainers: Puma

With the weather warming up you can also go for a run in the park and interact with nature, a valuable source of energy. This post is the result of observing  how most people exercise without having fun with what they're wearing; it is possible to be stylish!

Top: Rag & Bone, leggings: Lucas Hugh, trainers: Puma

But the most important is to be healthy and accept whatever body we have. It's all about balance, eating and exercising moderately in order to enjoy life and have enough energy to deal with all its challenges with a positive frame of mind.

Top: Top Shop, leggings: MCQ by Alexander McQueen, trainers: Golden Goose

To keep our body moving is a natural way to unwind instead of the traditional drink down the Pub. My favourite look to exercise is definitely a loose fitting top, leggings and trainers, which can never be completed without colourful leg warmers.

I do enjoy having a drink with my friends from time to time, but to cope with negative emotions and circumstances, there's nothing like a good work out! From yoga to cycling, from Kung Fu to Zumba, from running to swimming, there are many activities to choose from, just pick one you truly enjoy and stick with it!  



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